Monday, November 20, 2017
Bars & Spirits

Local craft beer of the week: Malt liquor? Yes — 3 Daughters Brewing’s Ctrl + Malt + Del

RECOMMENDED READING


In 2004, Delaware’s Dogfish Head Brewery was well into the process of making a name for itself through envelope-pushing beers, like 120-Minute IPA and World Wide Stout, brews notorious for their astronomical alcohol content.

Then came something even more unusual: Liquor de Malt, an American adjunct malt liquor made with gourmet corn and packaged in 40-ounce bottles inside a hand-stamped paper bag.

Unfortunately, Florida never received any of this beer, most likely because the 40-ounce package size is not allowed. But now, 13 years later, we have a local craft malt liquor of our own: 3 Daughters Brewing Ctrl + Malt + Del.

While "malt liquor" simply refers to any stronger-than-average lager, the term is forever linked to low-end brews sold in oversized clear bottles in gas station coolers across the country. And look, let’s not pretend that we’ve never enjoyed a cool, 32-ounce King Cobra, or perhaps the undisputed ace of the malt liquor game, Colt 45.

Ctrl + Malt + Del pours pale yellow and crystal clear, with a thin white head. The nose is neutral, with just a hint of sweet corn, the preferred adjunct for this style. The flavor is lightly sweet, with a little grain and little to no hop character, other than the small amount needed to offset any excessive sweetness. The finish is dry, the result of a very full fermentation (the goal of malt liquor is generally to get as much alcohol into the beer as possible).

Ctrl + Malt + Del clocks in at 7.2 percent alcohol by volume and drinks surprisingly easy, as long as you drink it while it’s cold. Everyone knows that you don’t let malt liquor warm up.

3 Daughters’ version hits all the right malt liquor notes, without any of the negatives that have given the genre a bad name, such as loads of fusel alcohols that give some malt liquors an unpleasant kick and enhanced hangover-producing potential.

You won’t find this one at Citgo — head to 3 Daughters (222 22nd St. S, St. Petersburg) to try it on draft. It’s an oft-maligned but nevertheless classic American style that’s worth trying, especially if you don’t take yourself too seriously. — Justin Grant

Have a suggestion for the Local Craft Beer of the Week? Brewers, have a limited release coming that we should know about? Email jg@saintbeat.com.

Comments
Tips for first-time Thanksgiving hosts (or really, any of us)

Tips for first-time Thanksgiving hosts (or really, any of us)

Take small bites.This may be the most crucial advice for Thanksgiving hosts who don’t have years of cooking and coordinating experience to provide the confidence that comes with leading the charge on the year’s biggest cooking day.It’s the first thin...
Updated: 5 hours ago
American wines red, white and sparkling for your Thanksgiving table

American wines red, white and sparkling for your Thanksgiving table

You’ve dusted off Grandma’s good crystal for the Thanksgiving table. Or you’ve pulled out all your mismatched stems to have enough for every place. Now what to pour?For this most American meal, based on foods native to America — turkey, pumpkin, corn...
Published: 11/20/17
Thanksgiving 101: Everything you need to prepare for the big cooking day

Thanksgiving 101: Everything you need to prepare for the big cooking day

From appetizers to pies and everything in between, we’re here to help you put together a low-stress Thanksgiving spread. Here are a few ideas, and be sure to check out our Thanksgiving special report for more tips on preparing for the big day.Ideas f...
Updated: 5 hours ago
How to make a pie from scratch: filling ideas, decorating tips, crust recipes and more

How to make a pie from scratch: filling ideas, decorating tips, crust recipes and more

Perfect your crust. Try new filling recipes. Learn some decorating tricks. And prepare for the biggest pie day of the year: Thanksgiving.   From apple to thyme You’ve got the crust down. Now it’s time to choose a filling for your holid...
Published: 11/17/17
Thanksgiving sides beyond the classics: corn casserole, Brussels sprouts salad, pecan pie carrots

Thanksgiving sides beyond the classics: corn casserole, Brussels sprouts salad, pecan pie carrots

There are probably a handful of essentials, things you must have on the Thanksgiving table lest some family members begin to riot. But I find there are often a couple of slots open for new things, chances to get weird or creative or, gasp, healthy. ...
Published: 11/17/17
How to make solid turkey gravy before Thanksgiving Day

How to make solid turkey gravy before Thanksgiving Day

As far as we’re concerned, anything you can make in advance of actual Thanksgiving Day is a good thing, and this make-ahead gravy fits the bill. Plus, Tucker Shaw of America’s Test Kitchen says it tastes just as good as if you made it wi...
Published: 11/17/17
How to plan your Thanksgiving menu

How to plan your Thanksgiving menu

Planning a really good menu is the stealth approach to being a really good cook. Here are some tips from the experts. New York Times Put some thought into the menu What leaves an impression is not only the dishes you can make, but also how they t...
Published: 11/17/17
Everything you need to know to prepare your Thanksgiving turkey

Everything you need to know to prepare your Thanksgiving turkey

The turkey is the unquestioned star of the Thanksgiving meal. It can be the most daunting part as well. But with a little planning and care, it doesn’t have to be.   Before you start • A decent roasting pan, one heavy enough that it wo...
Published: 11/16/17
Taste test: prepared mashed sweet potatoes

Taste test: prepared mashed sweet potatoes

If you want to spend more time with your family and friends this holiday season and less time in the kitchen, our judges suggest serving Hormel’s mashed sweet potatoes. No need to wash, peel and heat potatoes. Just pop the container in the microwave ...
Published: 11/16/17
From the food editor: An expert weighs in on how to stay calm this Thanksgiving

From the food editor: An expert weighs in on how to stay calm this Thanksgiving

I can tell right away that Tucker Shaw has thought about Thanksgiving a lot, and not just as a home cook. As the editor in chief of Cook’s Country, a member of America’s Test Kitchen and the former dining critic and food editor at the Denver Post, Sh...
Published: 11/16/17